they are their country

18 July 2014

Queens Road neighbourhood centre Halifax

Carl and I drove up to Halifax. I set my phone to satnav and followed the instructions and as we drove up Hopwood Lane we began to see Roma Halifax people walking down the road’s and side streets. Halifax is an impressive town when approached from the right direction. The route we took brought us into the new part of the centre of town to begin with but as we skirted the Victorian town and moved up Hopwood Lane it was clear that the area had been wealthy at some point. There were walls suggesting decorative gardens had lain behind him at one point and the road was wide. Further up more and more terraces began to appear with narrow cobbled lanes between them. The buildings were of an apparent high quality, made of a cut stone rather than the brick we see here in Sheffield. As well as Roma people there were lots are being called South Asians as well. The area didn’t give off a sense of prosperity at this point but my first impression was not one of great poverty. I think it is the apparent quality of the housing which gives that impression. Overall Halifax does not have the impression of a failing city. I say this in the context of the journeys I made into a number of the northern Lancashire mill towns where the dilapidation of the city centres was so evident. Halifax sits in very beautiful steep sided valleys and the hillsides, presumably once entirely to needed of trees, are now richly clad in small forests which make the views from the town quite exceptional in places. The main Victorian town centre sits on an easterly facing slope which must make it cold in winter. In the bottom of the valley runs the railway line and on the hillside above it a dark green coniferous woodland.

We were heading for the Queen’s Road neighbourhood centre. This too is an extremely impressive building. I met the caretaker bust I was there and the building had been erected in the 1860s as a school, not a church school but a school provided by the civic authorities. It differed from the sorts of schools I have seen in Sheffield in that it looked more like some sort of all-night greenhouse. It had very high windows along the whole frontage which stretched a good 60 m. There were two wings to the building which stood proud of the main facade which was entered through a very tall and light main door. Once inside the impression of space and light was not diminished and it was ugly inexplicable to me as I entered what this building must have been like. Very cold is one thing for sure. The caretaker said that originally it had been heated entirely by coal although a boiler system had been put in place around 1900. He said that the building had been put up by the town council on a site which at the time had an income but use across the and onto the hills beyond, facing eastwards towards the rising sun. He said that the front courtyard which must have been almost half an acre had originally been paved entirely with Yorkshire stone. Into this Yorkshire stone had been cast a map of, I think it was Britain, rather than just England, with all of the detail showing the various ports and major cities, natural features carved into the stone as well. He said that the council had taken these paving slabs up and reused them in the town centre turning them upside down. What a waste he said, can you imagine what sorts of heritage was destroyed at this point?

The building is clearly used now by a large variety of community groups and the houses a Council service which is taking the brunt of organisational issues in this area which are resulting from a great increase in the Slovakian Roma population over the past three or four years. We were told to go down a corridor to the left and in the corridor were sitting probably 10 men and women. Two or three of these appeared to be of Pakistani origin, one of them an older man in very traditional costume with a short beard. The majority of the people were Roma. Quite how Roma people are recognised is almost impossible for me to write about. It has to do with people’s clothes and it has to do with the way that their clothes fit their bodies. This feels uncomfortable to write down even in an effectively private sector fieldnotes. But at the same time Pakistani people are recognised, to an extent, by their clothes and the way their clothes fit their bodies. With Roma people the clothes they are wearing show their bodies. Although this is not any sort of rule. Roma people like everybody else vary from very very thin people to very large people. The clothes worn by the Slovakian Roma are distinctive space-space they tend to wear a variety of sportswear, it is not uncommon for men to wear long nylon/silk shorts and very common to wear some sort of sports or running shoes with socks. By and large the men are stocky and very muscular. They are not highly toned but have extremely powerful upper bodies. However they do not exclude any aggression in my experience although I would be naive to imagine that aggression and physical encounter is not a feature of the life for both Roma men and Roma women. The women to our heavily built and often very strong looking. However there are also extremely thin men and women too.

We were meeting with Janice Dawson who works as some sort of council employed community or neighbourhood officer. The area is known as the Park Ward it and extends for a square mile also to the north of the town centre and consists of a number of heavily populated terraced and back-to-back housing areas interspersed with small scale manufacturing or brownfield sites. Driving through I saw there was a mosque and I was told that the area had been populated in the post war years, the 1950s, by Italians and Ukrainians coming to work in the mills. This was followed by the arrival of the South Asian population who became the predominant group in the area. Over the last four years there has been a dramatic transformation and Janice was keen to emphasise how quickly and the astonishment at this taking place. The issues the area faced she said were the same as were probably faced in Rotherham or Sheffield. Issues with the number of school places particularly in the primary system. Demands on health care systems. Concerns about trafficking and prostitution.

She said that they had made a short to DVD at the centre. She had found a Roma Flag or possibly a poster of the flag and put it up at the centre in the hall. She had noticed that people stopped in front of the flag and said pointing at it I am Roma, we are Roma. She realised that it might be helpful to allow people to identify as Roma saying that initially people were frightened, or appeared to be frightened as far as she was concerned, to say they were Roma. The DVD is available on the website.

http://hxcentral.com/ward-forums-other-meetings/projects-in-park/

The centre hosts a variety of council services. The first person to whom I spoke in the office was Shakeela Zaman. At first she appeared to be diffident, and I felt that I was stepping on her toes asking to meet with Janice. However this turned out not to be the case at all and once we had made contact with Janice, who was an extremely if you so friendly and welcoming person, Shakeela also became extremely open and friendly. The office atmosphere was one of humour and gentle ribbing. That there were obviously pressures in the office as well. Janice made a point that during the drop-in which was taking place that day people might turn up from the Roma community with a huge variety of issues some of which were extremely difficult to deal with. She made the point which was corroborated by the other people in the office that it tended to be on a Friday afternoon that the most difficult issues would arrive, the implication was that these were issues connected with trafficking and all prostitution or some form possibly of abuse. In no way it was she trying to suggest that these were slowly problems connected to a Roma population which she clearly saw as a population with a large number of positive attributes. She has been quite clearly very moved by getting to know this group of people and reminding me of the people I have met in Rotherham she was a very clear working-class socialist.

Here is the email I sent to Janice following our meeting:

Hi Janice,
This is what I guess I do as well as be nosy! I keep minutes…
Our discussion today which both Carl and I found really helpful and encouraging – many thanks – consisted of the following points/ideas which you are going to try chase up one way or another! Each one is a photo possibility either at the Queen’s Road centre or elsewhere?

NOTE: we are coming to Community Iftar on 24th so if poss to set up some of the photo opps on the Thursday afternoon from – say – 15.00 onwards (could be there at 13.30 at earliest)

DONE
1. STAN FAKO – done!
2. KAREL – setting up as self employed carpet cleaner – done

TO DO
3. LUCAS – young man with Uni place in London
4. IVAN – Lucas’ brother involved in a Roma Matrix funded initiative and within that doing voluntary work at Credit Union
5. RAHILA – working with a Young Roma Youth Service
6. HALIFAX ROMA GROUP – recently constituted and possibly willing to be photographed
7. COLLAGE – gather together past images of Roma and mixed groups – send digital files to Carl for him to make a selection edit – include such a collage in local exhibition
8. EXHIBITION –in the Queen’s Road building in late/mid November 2014?
9. COMMUNITY IFTAR – Carl and Tim to attend on Thursday 24th

Best
Tim and Carl

Stan Fako was the Slovakian speaking or perhaps speaking worker at the centre. Czech I think he was only partly Roma possibly on one side. With Janice I had a discussion about the issues surrounding the use of non-Roma workers and the attitudes of ethnic Slovakians and Czechs towards the Roma. She understood exactly what I meant and cited an incident in which a worker had been sacked once it was realised that they were belittling and laughing at a class of Roma children acting out I think some sort of Christmas pageant. The Slovakian worker was at that time sniggering and saying what is the point into them doing this they don’t have any sort of religious beliefs or anything they are just ignorant. This person was immediately sacked. Carl photographed Stan when he was talking to firstly one young man who I briefly spoke to afterwards in my very poor and broken Romani. Secondly Carl photographed him speaking to Karel. Karel is setting himself up to be a self-employed carpet cleaner and was filling in some forms while Stan helped search for some cleaning equipment online for him. Karel had some English although it was very limited. Shakeera Immediately said that if he was starting as a carpet cleaner she would give him a go because currently she had to send her carpets of to Huddersfield to get them cleaned.

I went into the corridor while Carl was taking these photographs and tried to introduce myself to 3 Roma people sitting waiting outside. All of them turned out to be from the Czech Republic. The woman had skin which looked as if in some way it was smudged. She didn’t really respond either to write English nought to my attempts at Romani but one of the men dead and engaged with me in a really friendly fashion as if I were a visitor in a foreign country. He had what looked like a very damaged right of eye, glazed and partly white.

This notion of what it is like to learn the language has been very important to me in the past couple of days. I am having great problems learning the language because I have no immediate interlocutors where I am living, by which I mean on my street. Also I noticed that the Roma people I meet, by and large do not appear to have a great interest in my learning to speak their language. I contrast this with the passion with which people in Turkey, including the Roma, were excited that I was trying to speak their language. Is this a normal reaction of a migrant community? That they do not feel comfortable with someone trying to speak their language? Or is it something partly to do with the Czech republic and Slovak people who have some sort of what almost feels like a complex in that approach to speaking English?

I’ve also been thinking about the way that Roma people feel like a people on the move. When a Pakistani person moves or a Greek person moves or an Italian they leave behind their country and come to another country where they live and settle maybe keep or possibly allow their particular identity to gradually be assimilated. The Roma however do not leave the country behind but bring a country with them. They are their country.

st martins chapel – wells

Yesterday eveving I attended  Evensong at Wells Cathedral.  I had gone assuming that it would be a sung Evensong but found myself in St Martins Chapel amongst a small group of worshippers with the Book of Common Prayer in my hands.  I experience formalised worship like this as something akin to those little wisdom expressions that come in sweets, Chinese something cookies.  I also have ideas of the I Ching in my mind, in the sense that I understand the texts of the Bible to carry the possibility of meaning appropriate to any circumstance.  So I sat there listening or rather trying to keep up whilst listening as those taking part have a role to play in speaking through the responses and finding the correct rhythm to the pauses. 

The meaning that I might have found is secondary to my surprise.  I returned this morning to Matins to experience it again.  The odd manufacture of the Christian liturgy, of the whole edifice is quite a  construction.  Most of all it is the maintenance of the Old Testament in the present.  The constant reference to the people of Israel, the promise of God to the Israelites.  In this century when the real Israelites have returned to the Holy Land (Holy through Jesus not David) the use of their name to speak of Gods purpose and mystery is very painful.  No wonder that Islam sees Israel as the spear of a Christian west when the formal Church continues to rail at the Philistines. 

Wash out your mouth said the Lord.
This land is not yours any more that theirs.
All fall short of my command.
Pharasees and Philistines alike.
It takes a mighty army or a sling
But either way its not justice recorded
But victory called by some defeat.

So its restful in St Martins Chapel, intimate, you might be next to a Bishop or pauper in a small room.  Barely any one really cares is the truth.  We pray for the Cathedral and it is a good measure of the faithful.  Don’t trust God,  War or food you gather from the floor.  Don’t even trust museums, even living ones like this great edifice with its worshippers like lice eating a fictive dandruff.   I’ve nothing against lice and they do live on and on. 

image

Le Tour & weaving biographies

The Tour de France has just passed through Sheffield. There must be an enormous amount of writing concerning different ways that this race affects people and places. Over the two days the tour was in Yorkshire they estimate 2 ½ million people were out watching it. The tour is always followed by helicopters which give a birds eye view of the race as it winds across the hills and through the countryside. In my case the tour past less than 100 yards from my house. Earlier it had gone through the village of Bradfield where there is a Norman Motte of which I am very fond. On the third day the stage began on Parker’s piece in Cambridge and then, according to my father, later in the stage passed very close to Canning Town. These are all places that I have loved and in which I have spent time. My first impression of the tour was that it was a remarkable piece of landscape intervention, linking places via other places, populating a particular lying through with people, claiming routes as belonging to people. However after my father mentioned Canning Town I realised that the tour did something else. It offered a linking together of memory. A route which was sufficiently long to allow for people to weave their own biography.

letter to a dying friend

No need for reply dearest Richard – it is me that needs to write. I think about death quite a lot. Since being with my much adored mother through her death – life changed for me. Before reading your post I saw a woman I know a little this morning. Our eyes met and in her smile I saw a host of intimacies. Love and desire offer such possibilities which most of the time remain unspoken, unacted. People look at each other all the time and a myriad of silent thoughts animate each person, sometimes in parallel, sometimes horribly mistaken. Love and sex, the unbelievable urgency of birth and death. I wish you well in this affair you are conducting and – like those others who love you – respect your journey so far. I’m being selfish writing this to you – vicarious – but I will or our eyes won’t have met. xxx

Barking Scouts and Puritans

With my father and his partner we went to visit Conisbrough Castle. As is often the case I find Castle visits very anodyne and as on other occasions I was more interested in graffiti. There were the word:

BARKING S.A. SCOUTS

barking

Carved into the stone on the ground floor of the sheet. My father comes from Stratford and for me this piece of graffiti was the most moving element of the trip. After visiting the castle we went to see the church of St Peters. Inside at one point my father pointed out that the heads of the figures on the capitals of the Norman pillars had been knocked off. This must have been done by the puritans. It made me reflect that whilst it is possible to remove the graffiti from city walls and from inside churches it is not really possible to remove the damage done to icons by the puritans. You can get rid of modern graffiti but she cannot get rid of the puritan challenge to authority whether you like it or not. It is a bit like whitewashing the desire to forget the difficult elements of history and to render them clean. To describe historical monuments, as to English Heritage, as if the past were nothing other than a comfortable children’s story. The Puritans left their mark in a way that cannot allow the violence of their challenge to be overcome.
puritan_conisbrough

JS

What strikes me about this case is that the 1960s and 1970s saw popular public broadcasting increasingly wishing to integrate broadcasters as contemporary entertainers themselves. Throughout the 1960s the driving forces of popular music (men) were people perceived as challenging public mores of sobriety and decency. The 1960s took forward a liberal agenda whether that be the swinging 60s, free love, the Rolling Stones or 1968. However the broadcasting authorities within the BBC were doubtless shy of employing anybody who might actually be challenging any of those mores. And to people who appeared to be doing so. Men older themselves than both the target audience and the entertainers capturing their attention were employed. People who carried enough of the symbolic accoutrements of this particular aspect of modernity were favoured over those who might embody them in a more unsettling and, in the imaginary of the broadcasting world, threatening way. Jimmy Saville is the case in point. They took someone who only looked as if he was a modern man but really, duplicitous, remained safe. However that duplicity was far deeper than one which simply served the purpose of broadcasting as we have discovered.

last rites

Patrick Duggan is dead. Pat. Queen’s Scout. Moustached. Flat cap. Always in order. Ready. I’ve been over contemplating death these past few days and I seem to have landed one big like a fish. He was found by his friend Norma on the bathroom floor and Saskia rushed over and pumped his heart until the medics arrived and they worked on him for half an hour but could not revive his life. Fit all the way through until the last two weeks when he had breathing problems stomach aches and today at 10 am he was due at the doctors to hear the results of the test. But one way or another he died naked on his bathroom floor. There is nothing sad about that. What I find strikes me more than his dead body are his dead objects. He was a man who never married and lived with his mother to her death and had around him household things, decorations, photos with such a long history to them. Victorian accoutrements that actually had memories which were his family memories. One or two of the stories I do know but as he had no living family besides his cousin there is nobody to inherit. It’s the end of the memory. Embodied in objects. Norma his partner was stoic despite finding him dead and I realised that she, like my father, remains stoic because the other choice is collapse. I was tearful talking to her and she asked me to stop which was fair enough. I think it is the thought of those objects finding their way to junk shops to antique shops which would we perhaps even worse.
patstable
The photograph is the photograph of Pat’s table. Every meal was laid ready on the table after the previous meal. So he will have laid his breakfast table out the evening before he went upstairs. Underneath his sideboard has shoes with a shoe expander in them. His clock chimes the quarter hours. His jacket neatly hung behind the door.

pathos

How easy is melancholy to revive
Just now by it’s absence
I recalled finding the yellow archangel
On a lane in a wood in Berkshire when I was young
Which too is facile to evince
The sense of being old that comes with age and fatigue

I spend time on the edge of tears
I should maybe seep water to find relief
The ground is soft here
Returning to it might be a relief
Either death or simply pissing

limbvalley

Tall orders

We are overblown thinkers
Properly moved by logic
Those of us that think in this way
Using thought to regulate a sorry route
Following white lines catching cats eyes
Refueled along the way
A road just to get some where
Somehow oblivious to suffering
Despite everything that has happened

It is a soul less task living
Reason its measure
The butcher most of all
Nothing wasted
Even tall orders get fufilled